Despite its reliance on tourism, Zanzibar, along with international pressure groups, has resisted massive plans for tourism development on the island. It was feared that such developments would wreck the local ecology and economy, drive up food prices, displace locals, annex public beaches, recruit skilled, foreign labour to run them, and, ultimately, only profit the international tour operators and developers that would establish the resorts.

Instead there is a much more home-grown, organic tourism industry, cultivated by a mix of local entrepreneurs and expatriates with a passion for the island; beach resorts that have been carefully created to enhance and incorporate the island’s natural beauty rather than dominate it; or guesthouses that preserve the history and architecture of Zanzibar, instead of re-developing it. Examples of these include Emerson and Greens hotel in Stone Town, the Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel, and the Chumbe Island Coral Park.

Places to stay
The 236 Hurumzi hotel is the most well-known hotel in Stone Town. Founded by two Americans with a love for Zanzibar, Emerson Skeens and Thomas Green, the hotel is the fruit of many years of labour. They took two dilapidated old merchant mansions, joined them, and painstakingly renovated the two while preserving their unique architecture and ambience. Each room is different, with its own special features. One might have an open air bathtub, a galleried balcony overlooking the town, or simply incredible decor, complete with chandeliers and four poster beds.

The hotel’s most popular feature is its open-air rooftop restaurant, a favourite for tourists and honeymooning couples alike. The owners are not averse to putting on entertainment, from local musicians to poets and artists. If you want a true taste of old colonial Zanzibar, it is worth spending a night or two at 236 Hurumzi before heading out to the beach resorts.

To the north of the island you’ll find the Nungwi Peninsular, and on that you will find the idyllic Ras Nungwi Beach Resort. Also the brainchild of an expatriate with a love of the island, this resort employs mainly local staff from the nearby fishing village, as well as sourcing its incredible seafood from the same. Tim Hendriks has spent years turning the resort into his idea of a tropical paradise. The bungalows blend perfectly with the natural surroundings, the common areas are festooned with cushions for lounging away the hours, and next to the quiet, white-sanded beach, the sea is a brilliant aquamarine. As far as tropical paradise getaways go, you won’t find much better than this.

For the ecotourist, however, their demands might be a little more stringent. They want more than just an idyllic holiday; they want nature, wildlife, and the knowledge that their tourist dollars are being used to help the environment. The Chumbe Island Coral Park meets all these demands, in a tranquil and beautiful setting. It's an island to the west of Zanzibar which, thanks to the tireless work of Sibylle Riedmiller, is now also an eco-reserve and education centre for Tanzanian and Zanzibari children.

Paying for the environmental work they do is the stunning resort on the island. Designed to blend with its natural surroundings, it features luxurious thatch-roofed bungalows literally made with local materials, from palm leaves to driftwood, all artistically combined to create a Swiss Family Robinson style vibe. For some other accommodation ideas visit www.zanzibar-retreats.com or www.purezanzibar.com

Getting to Zanzibar
One of the principal factors behind Zanzibar remaining largely undiscovered by the tourist masses is its relative inaccessibility thanks to a lack of convenient air travel. Gulf Air and Oman Air used to operate direct flights to Zanzibar but, unfortunately, this route no longer exists. Any flight you take from Bahrain will generally stop once in the carrier’s hub — Qatar Airways in Doha or Emirates in Dubai — before taking you to Dar es Salaam. From there you can either catch a smaller flight with several local carriers to Zanzibar or, alternatively, take the ferry. This can be an enjoyable and scenic alternative to flying, as long as the weather is fine.

What might also put people off Zanzibar, initially, is a relative lack of things to do when compared to other destinations around the world. You won’t find a vibrant nightlife and there are few tourist spots outside of Zanzibar City and Stone Town.

However, these factors combine to create a unique and exotic destination for holiday-makers seeking a destination that is still largely unspoilt by large-scale tourism. You won’t be jostling for a sunbed on this particular island! If it is a unique and tranquil island paradise that you want, then Zanzibar could be the undiscovered gem that you’re after.