Mon, 01 October 2018
With the first perpetual calendar in the Nautilus collection and the first chronograph in the Aquanaut range, Patek Philippe has further enhanced the appeal of its two refined, sporty watch families. The debuts introduce new patented fold-over clasps that stand out with improved safety features.
In the domain of casual elegance, Patek Philippe established a strong position with two watches that gained cult status: the Nautilus and the Aquanaut. The first of the two was launched in 1976, sporting a unique style with an octagonal bezel and a porthole-inspired design. In the meantime, it has been followed up by women’s and men’s versions with various complications, among them a self-winding chronograph, a second time zone, and the patented Annual Calendar. The Aquanaut, introduced in 1997, epitomised contemporary casual chic. Its youthful, modern and unusual style was a big success from the very start. The Aquanaut was also presented in feminine (the Aquanaut Luce with a diamond-set bezel) and masculine versions, and is available with the exclusive Travel Time mechanism that displays a second time zone with persuasive simplicity and remarkable clarity.
Ref. 5740/1G-001 Nautilus with a perpetual calendar
Patek Philippe presents the first grand complication in the Nautilus line, showcasing an analogue perpetual calendar, one of the manufacture’s most coveted classics since 1985. It is a unique combination of casual sportiness and technical finesse, robustness and high-end watchmaking artistry, endowed with the discreet elegance of an 18K white-gold case and the utility of a calendar that automatically recognises the number of days in each month, including the periodically recurring February 29.
Thanks to the famous ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 movement, a recessed 22K gold minirotor and a particularly slender calendar module, the 8.32mm high case – it is water resistant to 60 metres – is remarkably svelte. In fact, it is Patek Philippe’s thinnest perpetual calendar. The architecture of the movement and its refined finissage, including the bridges with chamfered and polished edges as well as the Calatrava cross engraving on the winding rotor, can be admired through the sapphire-crystal display back.
The characteristic design of the bezel is emphasised by vertically satin finished surfaces that contrast against polished chamfers. The dial is decorated with raised horizontal embossing, a typical facet of men’s Nautilus watches, and features the same sunburst blue that graced the versions released on the occasion of the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus in 2016. The porthole-inspired case design gave this model its name. Legibility in daylight and in the dark is optimised with broad hour and minute hands as well as the applied white-gold hour markers with luminescent coatings. The three subsidiary dials of the perpetual calendar with analogue displays (day of the week and 24-hour dial at 9 o’clock, month and leap-year cycle at 3 o’clock, date and moon phases at 6 o’clock) are harmoniously integrated in the subtly rounded octagon of the dial. A refined detail is that the subdial for the date, the most important calendar indication, is slightly larger than the two others. The 24-hour display simplifies calendar settings. The moon-phase display is extremely precise. It is controlled by a mechanism that deviates from the actual position of the moon by merely one day every 122 years.
The correctors of the perpetual calendar (day correction at 9 o’clock, date correction between 11 and 12 o’clock, month correction between 12 and 1 o’clock, moon-phase correction at 6 o’clock) were optimally positioned with an ingenious system of deflection mechanisms and seamlessly integrated in the Nautilus case design.
The white-gold bracelet, also integrated in the case, echoes the finissage of the case and bezel, alternating polished central links with satin-finished lateral links. To improve wearing comfort, Patek Philippe has introduced a totally new, patented fold-over clasp. It features four independent catches to optimise opening and closing and to prevent the unintended release of either of the two clasp segments.
Ref. 5968A-001 Aquanaut Chronograph
The Aquanaut collection, the embodiment of contemporary sportive chic, now welcomes its first chronograph. It is a complication that perfectly matches the personality of this young and dynamic model range. To prepare it for every conceivable situation of an active lifestyle, Patek Philippe endowed the new Ref. 5968A-001 with the CH 28-520 C calibre, a self-winding flyback chronograph movement that persuasively melds tradition with innovation. It combines classic column-wheel control with the modern, vertical disc clutch which prevents hand bounce and rebound when starting the chronograph. Because this clutch is virtually friction-free, the sweep chronograph hand can also be used as a continuously running seconds hand. This eliminates the need for a seconds subdial. Thanks to the flyback function, the wearer can actuate the pusher to initiate a new measurement while the chronograph hand is running, which makes a reset superfluous. The transition from the chronograph to the running seconds function allows the watch to be synchronised with a time signal by using the stop seconds feature.
This new Ref. 5968A-001 in steel also attracts attention with its unique aesthetic appeal and the very balanced integration of the chronograph in the exclusive Aquanaut design. The 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock adopts the characteristic contours of the gently rounded octagonal bezel. The elongated pushers are harmoniously integrated on both sides of the crown protector. The chronograph displays (chronograph hand, the peripheral railway track scale with quarter-second divisions, 60-minute counter) are orange and contrast well against the black dial with the typical Aquanaut embossed pattern. Excellent legibility is guaranteed by applied Arabic numerals in white gold and the broad baton hands – all with luminous coatings.
Thanks to its screw-down crown, the rugged case is water resistant to 120 metres. It exhibits a refined alternation of delicately satin-finished surfaces and flanks, producing the same interplay of light as the bezel with its smooth glossy surfaces and polished chamfers.
The composite strap is embossed like the dial. It is very comfortable on the wrist and highly resistant to abrasion and wear as well as to salt water and UV radiation. Patek Philippe delivers the watch with two straps: the black one is standard issue and can be replaced with the orange strap that amplifies the bold accents of the dial.
With the new Ref. 5968A-001, the manufacture also assures fitness for use by introducing an innovative fold-over clasp. It has four independent catches for enhanced opening and closing functionality.
Bahrain Jewellery Centre is the authorised retailer for the brand in the Kingdom. Visit Patek Philippe Boutique at Moda Mall for more information.
Call 17 520-055.