A Study in Emerald
by: BTM - Tue, 10 Mar 2026
To mark May, the birthstone month of emeralds, Graff presents a selection of high jewellery creations that highlight the gemstone’s depth of colour, rarity and enduring presence in the house’s design language.
Few gemstones command attention in quite the same way as emeralds. Their colour is unmistakable, a saturated green with remarkable depth and luminosity. Emeralds have long held a special place within Graff’s collections, particularly those sourced from Colombia, whose deposits have produced some of the most vivid and highly prized stones in the world.
Founded in London in 1960 by Laurence Graff, the house was built around the pursuit of exceptional gemstones. Having trained as a jeweller in Hatton Garden, London’s historic jewellery district, Graff established his company at the age of 22 and quickly developed a reputation for recognising rare stones and transforming them into distinctive high jewellery. Over the decades the brand has expanded internationally while maintaining an approach that places the gemstone itself at the centre of every creation. Graff is known for overseeing the entire journey of a stone, from sourcing and cutting to design and final setting, allowing each gem to guide the character of the finished piece.
Emerald-cut stones appear prominently throughout the May presentation. With their clean geometry and stepped facets, the cut reveals colour in a calm and deliberate way. Light moves gently across the surface rather than scattering into sparkle, producing an almost luminous glow.
Necklaces within the collection illustrate how Graff frames emeralds within balanced compositions. Emerald-cut stones appear along slender lines of diamonds that gather into refined focal points, where carefully placed settings enhance the gemstone’s vivid green hue without overwhelming it. Alternating emeralds and round diamonds introduce a rhythmic structure that emphasises the contrast between the cool brilliance of white diamonds and the saturated colour of emeralds, a pairing long associated with classic high jewellery.
Butterfly motifs provide a lighter interpretation of emerald jewellery. Diamond butterflies appear along delicate diamond-set lines, with marquise and pear-shaped diamonds forming subtle wings around emerald-cut stones. The motif continues through earrings and bracelets, where the sense of movement is maintained through precise gemstone placement.
Earrings within the selection range from delicate compositions to more dramatic arrangements. Cascading tiers of pear-shaped emeralds and diamonds create fluid movement, while other designs favour geometric balance. Emerald-cut stones appear framed by pavé diamond structures or suspended beneath diamond clusters, creating pieces that feel architectural while remaining fluid when worn.
Rings highlight the diversity of emerald forms. Pear-shaped stones appear within sweeping diamond surrounds that draw the eye inward, while cabochon Colombian emeralds reveal the gemstone’s natural depth and character through smooth domed surfaces. These cabochons are often set within structured diamond frames that emphasise their colour while maintaining sculptural restraint. The prominence of Colombian emeralds within the designs reflects their long-standing reputation for exceptional colour and quality.
Bracelets continue the collection’s emphasis on structure and proportion. Emerald-cut stones appear alongside pavé diamonds in symmetrical arrangements, while circular diamond motifs occasionally frame central emeralds. Other designs present the stones in continuous sequences that wrap around the wrist.
The craftsmanship behind these pieces reflects the precision for which Graff has become known. Emeralds require particular care during cutting and setting due to their natural structure. Each stone must be selected carefully to ensure consistency in colour while preserving the integrity of the gem.
Graff’s Emerald Month presentation recognises this quality by allowing the gemstone to remain central to every design. Diamonds provide light and structure, while the emerald remains the defining presence.
As May approaches, the selection offers a reminder of why emeralds continue to fascinate collectors and jewellery enthusiasts alike. Through these creations, Graff reaffirms the enduring appeal of one of the world’s most celebrated gems.
Digital Edition
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