Sun, 03 December 2017
This year, Patek Philippe celebrates the 20th anniversary of its sporty and dynamic Aquanaut collection that had its debut in Basel in 1997. As a tribute, the manufacture presents the new Ref. 5168G, delivering proof of how well the elegance of the noble metal complements a rugged and masculine watch that is water-resistant to a depth of 120 metres.
It is the first Aquanaut men’s wristwatch in 18K white gold, and, with a diameter of 42mm, it is also the largest model in this line. The format pays compliment to the original 1976 Nautilus of the same size that was nicknamed ‘Jumbo’, and still refers to that name among collectors today. Also new is the night blue colour of the dial that darkens to a subtly gradated black toward the outside. Its delicately embossed structure sets the stage for applied Arabic numerals in white gold that complement new luminous five-minute markers, also as appliques in white gold. But the design of the gently rounded octagonal bezel with vertically satin-finished flats and chamfered polished flanks remains unchanged.
An 18K white-gold case accommodates the self-winding calibre 324 S C movement. It melds all the hallmarks of traditional haute horlogerie with innovative high-end technology. Merely 3.3mm in height, the movement is so flat that, even with its elaborate seals and gaskets, the complete watch is only 8.25mm thick. Its heavy central rotor in 21K gold provides ample energy. With a maximum deviation of -3 to +2 seconds per day, the rate accuracy of the watch is remarkable. The finissage of the movement is just as noteworthy: Geneva striping, countersunk and polished bores, gold-filled engravings and round-chamfered, polished edges that emphasise the shapes of the individual bridges. The gold rotor is decorated with perlage and Geneva circular graining as well as an engraved Calatrava cross, a registered Patek Philippe trademark.
The same cross also graces the 18K white-gold fold-over clasp. It reliably secures the night blue composite strap embossed with the typical Aquanaut pattern. It is supple, tear-resistant, anti-allergic and largely immune to wear, salt water and UV radiation. This makes it ideal for a watch with the personality of the new Aquanaut Ref. 5168G.
Patek Philippe timepieces are available in the Kingdom at Patek Philippe Boutique, Moda Mall.
Call 17 520-055.
Aquanaut Ref. 5168G
Calibre 324 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement. Aperture date.
Number of parts: 213
Number of jewels: 29
Power reserve: Minimum 35, maximum 45 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold rotor, unidirectionally winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax (in Silinvar)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Three-position screw-down crown:
• Pushed home: to wind the watch
• Pulled halfway out: to correct the date
• Pulled all the way out: to set the time
• Centre hours, minutes, and sweep seconds
In an aperture:
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
18K white gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 120m (12 bar)
Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 42.2mm
Width (9 to 3 o’clock including crown): 44.9mm
Length (across lugs): 50.1mm
Overall height (crystal to lugs): 9.1mm
Height (crystal to display back): 8.25mm
Width between lugs: 22mm
Brass, blue PVD coating
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold with Superluminova coating
12 applied five-minute markers in 18K white gold with Superluminova coating
Hour and minute hands: Baton-shaped hands in 18K white gold with Superluminova coating
Parfil seconds hand, bronze, white lacquered, counterbalanced
Water-, UV-, and abrasion-resistant composite material with chequerboard embossing to match the dial, night blue, double-security fold-over clasp in 18K white gold