Liz O’Reilly found that this Swiss venue knows how to serve up a classic dish to combat the cooler weather.
I needed no second bidding when the Mövenpick Hotel Bahrain said “Come try our fondue.” After all, who can resist the lure of creamy melted cheese on a windy island evening.
My companion and I were shown to a window table in the recently refurbished Silk’s restaurant, which, with its cool grey and silver décor and sparkling orb lamps, is both intimate and trendy.
It’s possible to order separate starters such as a salmon or ham platter but we decided to go for the set menu for two, which includes an appetiser of thinly sliced, air-dried beef over a crisp
garden salad with apple and pomegranate dressing. The sweetness of the pomegranate delicately contrasted with the rich flavour of the beef – a perfect fresh and light introduction to the main event.
The burner lit, the bubbling fondue pan was carried to our table with great aplomb and we tucked in, enthusiastically dipping chunks of fresh French bread into the bowl of creamy, melted Appenzeller, Gruyère and tomme de Savoie cheese. Lightly flavoured with white grape, the cheese is a triumph of warmth – texture, flavour and scent speaking of snow-covered Alpine villages.
We did choose to add the optional kirschwasser, a traditional cherry brandy, but I actually preferred the cheese without, revelling in the pure, rich taste and aroma.
The serving for two of us was huge and we could happily have sat for several hours to finish off the whole pan; this is comfort food at its very best, seriously warming and eliciting smiles from both face and belly.
We finished our meal with fresh fruit tart and strawberry sorbet – again, light fresh flavours, the perfect end to a meal that would be too heavy with a more traditional dessert.
